Boy it has been a long time since I have updated this blog. Well from now on I am going to keep up with my duties as a blogger. Yeah right. Anyway first I am going to post some old emails that went out to our group email list. So enjoy.
As Marcus mentioned in his last email, the (Jewish) holidays here are like nowhere else that I’ve ever been. There’s sort of a surreal quality about suddenly finding yourself in the majority when you’ve spent your whole life being a minority. Not everyone here is observant by any stretch of the imagination, but even those who are secular or not even Jewish live their lives around the Jewish calendar, with an awareness of Jewish holidays that I would imagine isn’t found anywhere else. As Marcus mentioned in his email, it was just incredible on Yom Kippur to be walking to shul (synagogue), and to see so many other people doing the same thing and yet going in so many different directions. I also really loved the almost complete absence of cars on the street. It made the day feel just that much more special, all sort of calm and quiet, giving people space to start fresh. Immediately after Yom Kippur, the cars returned to the streets in droves, and people began building their sukkot (booths for the holiday of Sukkot, which Marcus wants to talk about in more detail). Here, not only private families, but also restaurants build sukkot so that everyone can fulfill the mitzvah of sitting (which really refers to eating and generally living) in the sukkah. In places with fewer kosher restaurants, such as the town of Rosh Pina, for the most part finding the places with sukkot outside serves as a really easy way of distinguishing the kosher restaurants.
Almost everyone gets the week of Sukkot as a vacation. Marcus and I (and a lot of other people we know) took this as an opportunity to see some more of the country. We rented a car and drove up north with a friend of mine from the Yeshiva, Marion (a first year cantorial student), for a few days. After driving around Tiberius for about 45 minutes of getting lost and then found again, we finally located our hostel. We discovered that there really wasn’t that much we wanted to see or do in Tiberius itself, but I did enjoy our visit to the tombs of some famous Rabbis (Rambam, Yochanan Ben Zakai, Asa, and some other Talmudic sages). We had been told that the best kosher Chinese food was to be found in Tiberius, so we made reservations and looked forward to an amazing dinner. Unfortunately, we were rather disappointed in the food. On the bright side, though, Marcus and I think we live about a 10 minute walk from an excellent Chinese/Asian restaurant, so we won’t lack good Chinese while we are here.
The next day, we had a much more enjoyable day. We spent the morning at the hot springs just south of Tiberius. They have built some very modern pools so that visitors can enjoy the water. They even had areas marked off as “jaccuzi chairs” and “jaccuzi beds” with jets of hot water aimed at various spots on your back. I loved it! Inside the hot springs area, there were also the ruins of a Roman bath, and a small zoo/animal enclosure. We thought it rather odd that they advertised an alligator exhibit, so we decided to check it out. Not only did they have lots of different species of alligators, but they also had a cage with raccoons! (We were a bit mystified as to why anyone would want to see raccoons as part of a zoo, but figure that to Israelis they must somehow seem exotic or something!). After our fill of staring at alligators, we headed out to Tsfat for the afternoon. We had heard that Rosh Pina was in between the two places and was a very scenic lookout with good food. Well, despite being mentioned in all the guide books and our having been told by a tour guide to arrive in Tsfat by way of Rosh Pina, this little town was next to impossible to find. But, we persevered and eventually found our way there, only to discover that this supposedly amazing food is not kosher. Being in Israel, we refused to eat in a non-kosher restaurant, and therefore ended up at the only kosher establishment we could find – a pizza place. Once we got to Tsfat (only 9 km away), we wished we had waited, as there are a ton of great kosher places in Tsfat. Oh well. We did have a really nice time in Tsfat. We had hired a private tour guide (who spoke English) to show us around. We got to hear great stories about the three most famous synagogues in Tsfat, all of which have deep roots to Judaism’s mystical tradition. Since this message is already getting quite long, I’ll just share one little snippet with you. (O.k., maybe 2 for those of you more familiar with Judaism, we got to stand in the spot where the Ari initiated Kabbalat Shabbat; it’s now a paved plaza rather than a field, but still pretty cool )
The Abulafia synagogue is said to have arrived at its current location in the middle of the night. The community had been forced to flee their homes, rescuing only one Torah scroll from the original synagogue, which had been very carefully designed with many mystical symbols as decoration and measurements which also had particular meanings. When the community arrived in Tsfat, they were too poor to build a new synagogue, but they tried to recall what they could of the meanings and symbols built into the synagogue they had been forced to leave behind. One night, Rav Abuhav appeared to his community in a dream. He told them to fast and pray, not leaving their houses for three days. During those three days, fierce storms waged outside their houses. As the third day of the fast ended, so did the storms. The people left their houses, and were amazed to discover a large structure they didn’t recall seeing before. Some claimed, there had been only empty space their. Others claimed that an empty warehouse had always stood in that spot. To prove that the building was nothing more than a warehouse, despite the ornate carving visible on the outside, they opened the doors. There they found their synagogue, the very one they had been forced to leave behind, down to the tiniest detail, in the middle of Tsfat. Upon opening a closet where the second Torah scroll had been hidden, they found it not only intact, but not even the dust around the scroll had been disturbed.
After our tour of Tsfat, we wanted to check out the amazing Judaica and other art that is created there. Unfortunately, many of the stores and galleries were already closed. So, we ended up coming back again the next afternoon to browse and shop.
Our last morning up north, we joined up with three other Yeshiva students to take a jeep tour of the Golan Heights. The driver/guide we had originally booked with suddenly couldn’t get an English speaking guide for us. After much consternation and simultaneous phone calls (everyone has a cell phone here), a new guide was found. The jeep tour proved to be a lot of fun, and our guide was quite knowledgeable. We got a Talmud lesson, a history lesson, a biology lesson, and an agriculture lesson from him all during our 2 hour trip through the Golan! We got to see ruins from the time of the Talmud, and then we drove through a modern day moshav and got a lesson on the difference between a kibbutz and a moshav! At the end, just for fun, we drove through the middle of a stream before we were dropped off back at our cars.
So, all in all, our vacation was a lot of fun. Once we can figure out how to get the digital camera and the computer to talk to one another, we’ll even be able to share some pictures with you.
Unfortunately, our return home was not so pleasant. When we dropped Marion off at her apartment, we discovered that it had been broken into and ransacked while she (and her two roommates) were away. There were clothes, linens, and personal stuff strewn all over the place. We stayed with her and waited for the police, helping out with phone calls and whatever else we could. Fortunately, not too much was actually taken. But, dealing with the aftermath was certainly not easy. The whole Yeshiva community really rallied around Marion and her roommates to help in whatever way possible, which shows what a great community we have here.